Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Reloading Metal Crossbow.
This is a pump action crossbow with a detachable magazine which holds ten arrows. The arrows are also made of metal with a nail protruding from the front. I pinned dog hair to the back of the arrow to ensure that they flew straight.
This crossbow works in the same way as a pump action shotgun. As you pull back the string using the handle at the front of the crossbow, the string  locks and a bar releases an arrow from the magazine. As the handle is pushed back to its original position the arrow is pushed by the bar into the firing position.

The string is made from bungee cord which gives it the power to shoot the arrow to a range of 40-50 metres.
This crossbow required me to cut and weld metal and bolt it together. I also made the spring within the magazine by twisting metal.

Basic Crossbow 
This was the first crossbow I made using a simple design. As you pull back the bar behind the handle it puts the crossbow into a firing position and then you load your arrow underneath the metal lip by hand.
There is a safety mechanism built into the arrow which jams the trigger and string so it cannot fire accidentally.

Sniper Crossbow
This is the crossbow that I am currently working on. There's an adjustable stock with three spikes which have grooves on them which lock into the stock and can be adjusted by pressing the silver button on the side of the crossbow. The safety mechanism is the same of that in a retractable pen and gives it more of a sniper's look. Underneath there is a metal plate with grooves on it that allows the handle to slide along. It locks at two points allowing the stand to fold up underneath the gun and open as you can see in the picture. The string is twisted around pulleys so you can get more power using less space. I will continue to post more pictures as I work towards its completion.
Sculpted rose
I made this rose using a wire frame that I bulked out using tin foil. I then sculpted the rose around the frame using super sculpy. After using a heat gun to harden it I painted the rose using acrylics.
I propped the rose up using zotefoam and cushioned it with ordinary foam I found.
The box is made from plates wood nailed and glued together. The lid slides smoothly through grooves so you can see the rose clearly within the confines of the box. I painted it with blackboard paint so that it could be written on if desired.

Interior design small scale model
I designed a cyber gun exhibition in my college chapel for this project. I built this model using foamex on a scale of 1:50

Early stages of Rhinotaur sculpt
The base is made of wood filled in with plaster and stones to make the landscape. I made a metal frame which I bulked out with tin foil and then used super sculpy to sculpt the Rhinotaur. As you can see in this picture I based the body of the Rhinotaur on a combination of a body builder and a rhino. I created the detail of his muscles and veins to look like those of a body builder while making him bulky and stocky like a rhino 

Finished Sculpt                                                         It stands at 8 inches and is painted with acrylics. To create the arrowheads I stuck plastic to the sections of metal wire that I cut. This sculpt displays the Rhinotaur being attacked by two hunters. I wanted to convey movement as he chokes one of the hunters and drags the other one along.                                                                                    


Original Plasticine sculpt of Rhinotaur

This was my starting point ,I used a plaster head as a base and built my Rhinotaur's face on it.I used plasticine to create the face and then used baby powder to smooth it over. I didn't want to create too much expression on his face because he was only meant to be an extra in a film. The goal was to make him ugly, old, threatening and scary. To give him more character I left his horn broken.

Plaster moulds for mask and ears

By making a clay wall around the face and pouring plaster over it, I was able to make these plaster moulds.The ears had to be made in a separate mould so the plasticine could be removed.  

Latex and Vermiculite moulds for horns

The horns had to be cut off as well as the ears so the plasticine could be removed.I made the horn moulds by covering them in latex and then mixing latex and vermiculite, keeping an equal amount of the mixture around the horn by lifting it as it dries


                                                                                                 End result for Rhinotor mask

 Heron puppet

The head and neck are operated by your right hand , the mouth opens and its mohawk moves up and down.These are operated using guitar strings with rings at the end.

 By pushing a handle at the back of the bird his wings open. The mechanism is similar to that of an umbrella.The wings flap if you squat up and down .His feet are operated by my feet ,which have poles extending from them.

The mechanisms in the head of the bird can be seen in this picture.As the strings are pulled these mechanisms work causing the mohawk to move up and down as the string pulls a hinged rod.The beak has a spring in between the upper and lower beak which closes it after it has been pulled and opened.
The inner workings of the puppets are under floor heating pipes,plastic pipes,nuts and bolts,metal rods,weed cover,gardening rods and metal mesh. Some of the feathers have two rods on them to guide them as the wings open and close

Video showing early workings of the bird in action.

Life size barn owl

This owl has a mouse in its mouth and has just landed on a slanted branch.The Barn owl was made using super sculpy over a wire and tinfoil armature. The base is a metal plate, framed with car filler on top with stones on top of that. I used bristles from an evergreen tree as grass at the base. Underneath the branch is a metal rod which I welded to the base.

Film prop

This prop is a Buddha on top of a large bolder surrounded by a dragon.The prop has a hidden key within.Was made using wood,tinfoil and super sculpy.

The moulds used were the back two.The right mould is a Thixo two part plaster mould for the head and the type of mould for the key on the left. The other moulds are silicone moulds for a chess set.